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MORGAN'S JOURNEY DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI IN 1767 



By Col. JAMES M. MORGAN 



George Morgan was the first citizen of the United States who ever 
made the voyage down the ^Mississippi from the mouth of the Kas- 
kaskia or Ohio River to the Gulf of Mexico. Butler in his History 
of Kentucky (1834) says: 

The earliest enterprise in navigating the Mississippi by Americans from Pitts- 
burg to New Orleans was indeed one of boldness. It was performed by Colonel 
Taylor, of Kentucky, bis brother, and Colonel Linn, who got as far as the Yazoo 
.•Hid then went to Georgia witli the southern Indians in 1769. 

The following fragment of a journal kept by Col. George Morgan 
while on his first voyage down the Mississippi proves conclusively 
that he performed the feat at least two years before Colonel Taylor 
and his party failed to accomplish it. 

JOURNAL 

On Monday, 30th of September, 1767, I set out from Philadelphia and over- 
toolv Mr. John Campbell and Joseph Ilollingshed about 33 miles from the city. 

I met with Place on his way to Philadelphia with news that two of our boats 
had been plundered on their way down the Ohio by a party of Indians, who had 
murdered all of our people. This induced me to go to Mr. CoUender's to Inquire 
more particularly into the affair, and wait at Carlisle for the rest of the party 
to eome up. 

On Sunday I left Carlisle, stopped at Bedford, and came right on to Fort Pitt 
(Pittsburg), where I was most politely and kindly welcomed by Captain Edmon- 
stone, royal army, the commanding otticer of the garrison. 

At the Shawnee cabins I met with a Six Nation Indian who called himself 
John. Thirty-six days before he had eut his knee with a tomahawk, which 
glanced from a joint of venison he was cutting. He bad been unable to walk 
ever since and had no one to procure subsistence for him but his wife. I gave 
one Thomas Ilay. who lived near his hut, 2.") shillings to buy necessaries for him 
and ordered as much more to be given him on my part if Mr. Croghan should 
not come up before that was expended. I ordered him to purchase 100 ])ounds 
of flour for him November 21. On Friday at about 11 o'clock I embarked at 
the Kaskaskia village, situate on the southwest side of a river of the same 

name, which empties into the Mississippi about miles from the town, in 

which there are about 70 houses, mostly built of wood and plastered on the 
outside, notwithstaudiug three fine stone quarries half a mile above the towu. 

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morgan's voyage down the M1S8IRSIPPI IN 1767 953 



V,. Kaskaskia is situated on rising firouiul whifli has never been known to over- 

^ flow, while all the lowlands along Kaskaskia and jMississii)])! rivers is yearly 

(ji^subjected to inundation in the months of May and June. In those months fever 

f^ and ague have been remarkably prevalent insomuch that of the garrison and 

z-^ inhabitants of Fort Chartres few have escaped being more or less afflicted 

v^ therefrom ; and although not in itself mortal, yet the freciuency of it must be 

the occasion of other disorders that are so; insonnich tliat there is not a single 

person, male or female, born on the Illinois, of French parents, who has lived 

to be 50 years of age. But tlie climate very well agrees with Canadians and 

Europeans. 

Tlie tirst night we jtassed Cape " Cinque Nommes." and about 2 leagues below 
we stopped to cook rations for the 22d. having come 24 miles from the Kaslias- 
kia River. 

On the 22d. at 1 o'clock in the morning. I awoke my people to embark, when 
at tliat moment a boat from Mr. Clarkson appeared. He had sent it after me, 
with letters from Pliiladelphia. Having answered the letters. I passed on, 
but the wind was blowing strong against us and it became very foggy in the 
evening. We came no farther than 45 miles, in the course whereof we passed 
the Kaskaskia tribe of Indians, who were encamped on the Englisli sliore to 
hunt for the winter season. They have a trader witli them, whom I supi>lied 
for that ]>urpose at their own request. 

i^aiidaij, XovcniJ>cr 23. — The past night and this morning there lias been so 
great a fog that we dare not proceed until o'clock, when we embarked and 
reached the Ohio before 11 ; up which beautiful river we proceeded 2 miles to 
the Clarkson's bateaux, where I rested until the next morning, a very heavy 
thunderstorm having come up in the afternoon. 

From this point I wrote necessary letters to iNIessrs. Cole. Jennings, Clarkson, 
and Maisonville. 

Moiulai/, NorcDihcr .i). — The great fog this morning i^revented our pushing off 
until 7 o'clock, when it cleared a little, but soon come on again when we got into 
the Mississippi. It was so heavy that we could not see the boat's length, which 
obliged nie to i)ut in to the shore again, where we remained until 10 o'clock, 
when we once more made a start, but, the wind being southeast, we made no 
more from the Ohio ; in the course of which we passed three different hunting 
parties who had ascended the Mississijipi from New Orleans for the ])urpose of 
killing buffalo, bears, which they salt \\\) in large pirogues and bateaux 
and descend therewith by the beginning of December, to supply the inhabitants 
of Orleans. I visited one of their encampments and was kindly treated with 
bear's meat and buffalo excellently dressed in oil. 

Tuesday, Xorcinbcr 2-). — The fog again prevented my starting long before 
daylight, and, the wind being stormy and ahead, we got no farther than the 
" little field," on the Spanish shore. During the day we passed other French 
bunting parties. 

Wednr.stlaij. \oremher 26. — Fog continues. We were not enabled to make 
iiuich headway. Passed other hunting parties. Went on shore for meat, but 
k could get none. 

V Thursdaii. Xorcmher 21. — About 8 o'clock the storm abated and I pushed off, 

\ut at 11 it came on with such violence that I was obliged to put in to the shore, 

\, I could make no headway against it. This detained me until after 12 

,)ck, but in the interval one of my people killed a buffalo, which removed the 

hat we might fall short of i>rovisions. 

ay, November 28. — Embarked this morning at <; o'clock, but the wind 



954 EIGHTH INTERNATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CONGRESS 

coming out from the south. I could make no farther than the Heights of 
Margo, on the English shore. 

Saturday, ]\ovember 29. — Fog and wind continuing unfavorable, we came no 
farther than Consuls Bar, 36 miles from the Heights of Margo. 

Siindau. November 30. — At half past 3 o'clock in the afternoon we passed the 
river St. Francis, al)out 30 miles from last night's encampment. The banks are 
low and, like the others, subject to overtlow. 

Moiifhii/, December 1. — Passed the Hermitage. 30 miles below the mouth of the 
St. Francis River; encamped opposite Iron Island, on the French shore; land 
low ; soil rich. 

Tuesday, December 2. — Made only 21 miles; passed several deserted Indian 
villages ; encamped on a high bank on the English shore. 

Wednesday, December 3.— At 1 o'clock passed the Arkansas River, opposite 
which is an island 15 miles long, on which is a small French fort and about 10 
families. In the evening we encamped 1") miles below. 

Thursday. Decemher .'/. — Made but little headway on account of the dense fog. 
Met two large pirogues on their way to the Arkansas from New Orleans. They 
had been out eight weeks. 

Friday, December .5. — From the rain we had last night and the change of the 
moon I flattered myself that the wind would turn to the north, but the fog con- 
tinued and was so dense the whole day as almost to deter me from proceeding 
on account of the danger of running foul of the many logs which stand upon end 
in the river. Passed Great and Little and camped on the French shore. 

Saturday, December 6. — .Camped on the English shore. 

Sunday, December 7. — Passed two French hunting jiarties, l)()th on the 
English shore. 

Monday, December S. — This morning we embarked at 7 o'clock. I'assed the 

river . There we overtook a i)irogue going to New Orleans with buffalo 

meat. At night we camped on the French shore, -ir) miles below. This is the 
first day the sun has shone since we left the Illinois. We could have made 6 
or 8 miles more this day had we not seen a bear in the river which I was 
tempted to give chase to and finally shot. It proved to be a female, exceeding 
fat and fine eating. She measured 41^ inches around the middle and 5 feet 
from head to tail. 

December 9. — Passed Grand Gulf. This is a remarkably short turn in the 
river and occasions a particularly rapid current in it, and gave rise to the name. 

December 10. — Fog and rain continued. 

December 11. — I embarked at 7 o'clock this morning and about 4 in the after- 
noon arrived at the fort conunonly called " Natchez," from a tribe of Indians 
who inhabit the country. The fort was destroyed by the French in 1730. It 
is situated on a high hill, distant from the river 590 yards. There is at present 
a garrison of 44 men with 4 oflicers, a detachment of Scots Fusiliers, com- 
manded by Captain Rhea, who took possession on the 29th of last September. 
This fort was built by the French in 1759 and deserted by them immediately 
after the treaty of peace, when it was, with all the country east of the Missis- 
sippi, ceded to the English. 

December 12. — I tarried at Natchez to dry my potterie and take the latitude ^ 
of the fort, which I find to be 31° 30' north. Back of the fort are very extensivpig 
meadows, but the want of a horse and guide prevented my reeonnoitering the at 
and visiting the spot where the French and Indians had their villages. ^gmg 

Sunday.- December i3.— We arrived about 7 o'clock in the evening at Ifjj^ jn 
Rouge, where we went on shore for the purpose of cooking to-morrow's o,i the 
About 50 leagues up this river is what they call the " rapids." and an Indian^g town, 
of the Avoyelles tribe, and about 50 leagues still higher up is the Natic' 



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morgan's voyage down the MISSISSIPPI IN 17(57 955 

another tribe, and a considerable French settlement. The Spaniards now have 
New Orleans and all of the west side of the Mississippi, which was given up to 
them by the French. This river will be the passageway for a considerable 
portion of the Spanish treasure from Mexico. 

Dvccnihrr l). — Wind and rain i)revented my mailing much headway this 
day. 1 met 4 Indian canoes containing several Indians each, and on the banks 
were encamped several hunting p.-irties. In the course of the day's sailing. I 
passed 7 sm.ill French huts and al)out 40 or 50 negroes from Point Ccmpee 
engaged in cutting and hewing cypress so as to have it ready to float down to 
New Orleans early in the spring. 

Drrcnihcr /.T. — I embarked this morning at alwut ."> o'clock and stopped at the 
iirst French settlement of Point Coupee, where I breakfasted and tarried until 
near 7 o'clock in order that I might have daylight to view the settlement as I 
]>assed. It begins 4Si leagues below Natchez and extends 21 miles down the 
river. It is protected by a small fort garrisoned l)y one oHicer and 2(; n)f 
Several of the inhabitants have 40 negroes, some .")0. and few who have liv< 
the country any time have less than .j or G. The banks are higli. the 
are good, and in a few years the occupants will become rich. I had ;i p 
gale in passing the place and took great satisfaction in seeing my Engli^ 
fairly exposed to the view of the old masters of this great river, who 
came forth from every house to gaze at them. When we wei'e i)asslng 
the sentry hailed and ordered me to come on shore, but seeing my colors 
it better not to insist o^i my paying them that respect. My l)ateaux mt. 
were principally Frenchmen were in great trepidation at my resolution to 
without visiting the commanding ofticer lest we would he fired upon. At mIioul 
7 in the evening I arrived at Fort Bute, situated near the Il)erville ditch. I tar- 
ried here the Kith. 17th, and ]8th to see the Iberville River so much talked of as 
a passage of importance to the English nation, and the boundary between the 
French and English colonies. 



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